“What a place!” raves Globe food critic Sheryl Julian about The Landing — L’Approdo Pizza & Kitchen on Adams Street

The pies are traditional Neopolitan. The thin crust is a substantial, chewy dough that’s full of flavor and is cooked through; it tastes like someone who cares mixed it. Toppings are enough to flavor the dough without getting sloppy. The Margherita, which I consider the litmus test of all pies, is remarkable…